How To Restore Corroded Cymbals

Bronze is a substance that has been used to make tools, weapons, coins and artwork for thousands of years. Though bronze can last indefinitely, it is prone to corrosion, or deterioration, of the. YOU MAY LIKE. How to Clean Pitted Stainless Steel.

Written by Rochelle Leggett; Updated December 20, 2018

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Bronze is a substance that has been used to make tools, weapons, coins and artwork for thousands of years. Though bronze can last indefinitely, it is prone to corrosion, or deterioration, of the metal through exposure to harmful chemicals. If it is severe, corrosion can potentially destroy a bronze item. Learning how to identify, clean and prevent corrosion will help you protect your bronze items and keep them safe and intact for many years to come.

Bronze and Corrosion

All bronze is an alloy, or a mixture of metals comprised of mainly copper mixed with other metals, usually tin and zinc. Bronze will oxidize when exposed to air, developing a patina coating. A brown, black, red or blue to green coating on bronze is a sign of normal, harmless corrosion. This outer layer protects the inner layers of the bronze object from deteriorating. This coating is sometimes considered attractive or desirable, as well.

Bronze Disease

While some types of corrosion are desirable, others are not. If you see light green, powdery spots or green or brown 'growths' on your bronze, this is a sign of a condition known as 'bronze disease.' These spots flake away easily when touched. Bronze disease is active corrosion, meaning that your bronze item is not protected and is continually corroding. This can lead to serious damage of your bronze item. Bronze disease usually occurs in areas with salts in the air, ammonia pollution or continual high humidity. Bronze disease can also result from improper handling and cleaning.

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Cleaning Patinas

Although some people — such as coin collectors — find a patina desirable and attractive, you may not. To remove patina, rinse the bronze item in warm, distilled water and gently clean it with a toothbrush. Make a paste from either baking soda mixed with lemon juice or equal parts of flour and salt mixed with plain, white vinegar. Gently rub the paste onto the bronze and leave it for about 20 minutes. Rinse with distilled water and repeat for any areas that remain coated. For an old or valuable item, a conservation-approved method of cleaning involves making a thin paste of chalk and water, then rubbing the bronze item with the paste and a polishing cloth. Elite software etools math. It should be noted that removing the patina may harm the value of an antique.

Treating Bronze Disease

Treating bronze disease requires some chemistry and a lot of time. First, scrub your bronze item gently with a toothbrush, removing all of the flaking spots. Then soak it in a solution of 5-percent or less sodium sesquicarbonate. Change the solution weekly. When the solution is pH neutral, the bronze disease has been treated. Only use distilled water for cleaning and rinsing. This method may be impractical for large items. If your item is quite large or valuable, you should consult a professional for advice.

Maintaining Bronze

Once you have cleaned your bronze, it will immediately begin to oxidize again. You can only prevent the oxidation by protecting the bronze from the air. One of the easiest methods of doing this is coating the bronze with clear lacquer. However, you must be sure to coat the entire piece with lacquer. You can also coat bronze with microcrystalline wax thinned with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner. Brush the wax onto the piece, let the mineral spirits or lacquer thinner evaporate, then rub the piece with a clean cloth. For both methods, the bronze must be completely clean and grease- or oil-free. Again, it should be noted that adding these can potentially harm the value of your item, and you should research the best way of preserving your particular bronze item before adding wax or lacquer.

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I took some risks with some old cymbals so you don't have to..
I had some high hats that had corrosion for a while. I used some Sabian spray that was not very effective. To be fair the corrosion was pretty bad in some areas. I also used a toothbrush to hit the worst areas. I did this about 3-5 years ago so the corrosion is not as prominent in these pictures as it once.
Last weekend I purchased some Music Nomad cleaner and polish. The polish seemed to work better than the Sabian spray but of course it took a lot of effort and I needed plenty of towels on hand for the level of grime these babies had on them.
Anyway, today I brought my cymbals to my old man's house and he immediately brought out some Rust-Oleum gel so I decided to risk ruining my cymbals.
Sorry for the inconsistent lighting but I provided a couple photos to provide some a little lighting variation for you all.
First two pictures are before the application of the Rust-Oleum. Third picture is after the Rust-Oleum application. Forth and fifth picture is after applying more Nomad spray and polish. Last picture is the product I used.
I was blown away at how quickly the Rust-Oleum took away the light orange color in seconds and it took a good deal of the heavier corrosion (not completely) by rubbing with a cotton ball. To me, the cymbal went from a bronze color to a new penny shine. I was also surprised that the logo did not rub off at all. The cymbal logo came off a little more after polishing very lightly over the logo.
So in the end I am not sure I didn't ruin the cymbal in some way but figured I'd share this adventure because it's pretty hard to find cymbal cleaning solutions.
Any questions or feedback welcome. I'll be posting further cleanings with some better photos.